If you desire to do the job right, get a borescope so you can look down the barrel and in fact see what's going on. When upon a time, this involved costs substantial money. Now there are most likely half a dozen out there that are incomparably economical. Without a borescope, you're working blind.
It is two separate jobs. You get to deal with powder fouling. Second, you need to get rid of copper fouling. Just then are you done. There are all sorts of quality gun-cleaning items out there. Here is a list of what I utilize. J Dewey nylon-coated cleaning rods. They are available in.
Take your spot rod, and put 3 solvent spots up the bore. When it does, follow with a dry spot.
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(Do not get J-B or oil or anything else on the lens of your scope. You will regret it.) If you see no copper, or simply a faint wash of copper here and there, you're done. If you see gobs and gouts and swellings and streaks, it's back to the J-B.
If you do not have a borescope, run a solvent spot up the bore and let it sit, muzzle slightly down, for a couple of hours. Run another solvent patch through, and if it comes out tidy, you're done, but if it has green or blue spots, back to the J-B.
As a guideline, the more you spend on a barrel the smoother it will be and the less it will nasty. Every barrel fouls to one degree or another. I have actually had one or two cases where a barrel suddenly began to group as I reached the end of the procedure, but I have actually had far more break-ins that made no difference at all.
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They work, often, but if you forget and leave the things in your bore for more than 15 minutes, they will pit your bore but good, and given that I'm at the age where I forget stuff, I hesitate to take the chance. Also, they're hell on stock finishes. With a bolt-action, go easy on the Break-Free.
Take a cue from the military, whose lives depend upon their firearms going bang. They desire them spotless. And spotless is a great way to go.
The actions to properly clean your rifle depend on whether you are doing a field stripping or total disassembly. Due to the variety of rifles, complete disassembly of the gun aren't within the scope of this post.
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, and eliminate any loose particles that might be found within the action, bolt, receiver, frame and chamber.
One common misconception is that more is much better when it concerns lubrication of your gun. You desire to adequately oil where needed, however excessive can lead to extreme residues, which can lead to breakdowns and dealing with issues (slippery). Lubing cloths are an excellent tool since they help manage the amount of oil/lubrication being utilized in any given location of your gun.
The treatment is simple. Soak a couple spots in this solvent and run them down the barrel. (Remember, keep your barrel secured or pointed down to avoid any solvent gathering near the actionsee Step 1.) Permit it to sit, and bear in mind that removing copper can take a while.
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If the patch comes out stained blue, you still have copper in the barrel. Costs Buckley Note: There's a lot of talk about how these copper solvents can harm your bore.
What you don't desire is to let any ammonia solvent dry out therein. So once you're pleased that the copper is gone, run a couple of dry spots down the bore, followed by a couple of spots that have been damp with a regular cleansing solvent. Run three or 4 dry patches down the bore to get rid of any remaining solvent.